The Cardamom Mountains (Krâvanh Mountains) form a vast, biodiverse range in southwest Cambodia (and eastern Thailand). Stretching approximately 300 km long and 70 km wide, this 4+ million-hectare wilderness is one of Southeast Asia’s last intact rainforests. Dense evergreen jungle cloaks steep hills and broad valleys; the wet western slopes receive up to 3,800–5,000 mm of rain annually, while the eastern slopes in the rain shadow get under 1,500 mm. The highest peak, Phnom Aural (1,813 m), rises amid this forest. Hundreds of rivers descend from the mountains, creating dozens of waterfalls and wetlands. This remote terrain harbors rare wildlife (elephants, clouded leopards, Siamese crocodiles, etc.) and unique habitats (mangrove-fringed estuaries, freshwater wetlands, etc.), making it ecologically significant.
Getting There
From Phnom Penh: By road via National Road 4 (NR4) and National Road 48 (NR48), the journey takes approximately 4–5 hours by bus or private car. Buses (such as Giant Ibis or Virak Buntham) depart regularly from the capital, and private 4×4 transfers are also common. The final stretch of the journey can be bumpy, particularly during the rainy season. Key transit points include Andong Teuk (a river port) and Chi Phat village, located about 20 km up the Phiphat River.
From Sihanoukville: The journey takes about 3–4 hours by car or minibus along NR4 and NR48. This coastal route is generally smoother. From Sihanoukville city or airport, shared vans and buses run daily. Private taxis or 4×4 tours can drop you near popular resorts along the Tatai River, such as Canvas & Orchids.
From Siem Reap/Battambang: There is no direct transport. Most travelers take a bus (approximately 5–6 hours) to Phnom Penh, then connect to the Cardamom region as described above. Some adventurous travelers drive via Pursat and Koh Kong, but this route involves long, rural roads. Alternatively, you can take a domestic flight from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville (about 1 hour), then continue by road.
From Thailand: Cross the border at Cham Yeam (from Trat province) into Koh Kong. From there, travelers can continue onward to their destination within the Cardamoms.
Best Time to Visit (Climate)
The Cardamom Mountains have a tropical monsoon climate. The dry season (November to April) is by far the best time to travel. During this period, the weather is cooler (typically in the low 30s °C), trails are more accessible, and rivers remain calm—ideal for kayaking and hiking. Wildlife is also easier to spot when the trails are dry and water levels are lower.
The rainy season (May to October) brings heavy, near-daily downpours, with 20–25 rainy days per month on average. While the forest becomes lush and waterfalls are at their most dramatic, many tracks become muddy or even impassable. If traveling during the monsoon months, it’s essential to bring waterproof gear, dry bags, and consider hiring a local guide—trails can be slippery and difficult to navigate safely.
Seasonal Tips:
- November to February: Most popular time—dry, cool, and ideal for trekking and wildlife spotting.
- March to April: Still dry but hot, with temperatures rising to 35–37 °C.
- May to October: Green season—beautiful scenery, fewer tourists, but frequent rain and reduced accessibility. Suitable for experienced travelers and budget seekers.
Things to Do
Trekking & Hiking
The Cardamoms offer trails for all levels. Popular multi-day hikes include Phnom Aural (Cambodia’s highest peak at 1,813 m) through dense primary jungle and circuits in Phnom Samkos Wildlife Sanctuary. Shorter treks are available around ecovillages like Chi Phat and O’Soam, as well as near waterfalls. Trained guides lead paths through evergreen forests, bamboo groves, and steep ridges, with chances to see gibbons or hornbills.
Waterfalls
Many waterfalls lie within the range. The most accessible is Tatai Waterfall on the Tatai River—a scenic two-tiered drop (5–15 m high) reached by a 20–30 minute boat ride from Tatai town. Other waterfalls, such as Chhay Areng, require jungle treks from Chi Phat or Koh Kong. Swimming and picnicking at these secluded sites are popular among visitors.
River and Boat Tours
Guided boat trips and kayaking are among the top experiences. Kayaking on the Prek Tachan (Tatai) River offers views of towering trees and potential wildlife sightings such as otters, peafowl, and hornbills. Many eco-lodges offer kayak trips. Motorboat tours from Andong Teuk or Koh Kong city explore mangrove-lined channels and Panhung Island, where a wildlife release station is located. Some routes visit bat caves or the expansive mangrove forests of Peam Krasop.
Wildlife Watching
The Cardamoms are home to rare wildlife. Guided jungle walks in Phnom Samkos Wildlife Sanctuary or Southern Cardamom National Park may yield sightings of wild elephants, pileated gibbons, clouded leopards, sun bears, and diverse bird species like green peafowl and white-winged ducks. Early mornings or dusk are best for spotting animals. Over 100 species have been recorded in the region, including the elusive Indochinese tiger. Birdwatchers come in search of hornbills and kingfishers.
Camping and Ecovillages
For a full immersion, travelers can stay at eco-camps or community-run lodges. Designated campsites allow stargazing and sleeping in nature, usually accompanied by local guides. Chi Phat Eco-village provides homestays and dirt-floor bungalows with basic amenities. Visitors can rent mountain bikes and canoes to explore trails and rivers. Booking ahead is recommended as spaces fill quickly.
Cultural Experiences
Several villages in and around the Cardamoms offer cultural insights. Chi Phat has community centers that display local crafts such as jute weaving and palm-sugar production. Homestays allow travelers to enjoy traditional meals and learn about the local lifestyle. Trekking routes may pass through indigenous Chong or Khmer Daeum villages, where travelers can learn about shifting agriculture, forest foraging, and other traditional practices.
Ecotourism and Conservation
The Cardamoms are a conservation priority.
Protected Areas
Several large sanctuaries and parks safeguard the forests. On the west side lies Phnom Samkos Wildlife Sanctuary and Preah Monivong (Kirirom) National Park, while the eastern flank features Phnom Aural Wildlife Sanctuary. Botum Sakor National Park covers the coastal southwest with mangroves, islands, and limestone hills. The Southern Cardamom National Park, established in 2016, spans over 400,000 hectares and connects existing reserves, forming a crucial ecological corridor.
Ranger Protection
Wildlife Alliance rangers provide hands-on protection to approximately 1.7 million hectares of rainforest. Their efforts include confiscating illegal timber, removing snares, and protecting vulnerable species. Since 2002, over 7,000 trees have been rescued and more than 275,000 snares removed, significantly reducing illegal wildlife trade and deforestation.
Community Ecotourism
The Chi Phat project is a prime example of conservation through tourism. Launched in partnership with Wildlife Alliance in 2007, it trains local families to operate guesthouses, homestays, bike rentals, and guided tours—offering alternative livelihoods to logging or hunting. Today, the program supports hundreds of families, with 80% of revenue going directly to providers, while also funding anti-poaching patrols. In the northeast Cardamoms, the Steung Areng community is also developing an eco-tourism model to help preserve key forest corridors.
Ongoing Efforts
Several NGOs—including WWF, Global Conservation, and the Zoological Society of London—are working alongside Cambodia’s Ministry of Environment. Their initiatives include habitat restoration, biodiversity monitoring, and expanding protected areas. Rainforest Trust has funded the Southern Cardamom reserve (over 1 million acres) to help protect endangered species such as Indochinese tigers, elephants, and Siamese crocodiles.
How Visitors Can Help
By choosing certified eco-lodges or guides that support local communities and conservation initiatives, tourists play a vital role in sustaining the ecological and cultural heritage of the Cardamoms.
Accommodation
Eco-Lodges & Camps
Luxurious eco-camps in the Cardamom Mountains include:
- Shinta Mani Wild: Features 15 luxury tents in a private reserve designed by Bill Bensley, offering river kayaking and guided wildlife tours.
- Canvas & Orchids Retreat: Offers 12 riverside tented suites with access to hiking, kayaking, and birdwatching.
- Cardamom Tented Camp: Located in Botum Sakor National Park, this camp includes 9 safari-style tents, open-air dining, and directly supports local conservation initiatives.
Other mid-range lodges such as Tri Yamas Bamboo and O Soam Lodge provide comfortable cabins or tents with shared meals and nature-based activities.
Homestays and Guesthouses
In Chi Phat and along major trekking routes, you’ll find numerous wooden guesthouses and homestays. These are simple, family-run accommodations featuring fan-only rooms, shared bathrooms, and traditional Khmer-style meals. They offer an immersive cultural experience. Notable options include Fireflies Lodge, Koy Lay Homestay, and Fishing Cat Guesthouse in Chi Phat. Booking in advance is recommended during the high season.
Camping
For a true wilderness experience, travelers can bring their own gear or rent equipment from tour operators. Authorized jungle campsites are available near popular waterfalls and trekking trails. Some guides provide full-service camping treks, including gear and meals, for 1–2 night adventures. Camping is ideal for stargazing and nocturnal wildlife encounters, but should always be done with an experienced guide. Follow Leave-No-Trace principles to protect the environment.
Food and Drink
Local Khmer cuisine is the primary fare throughout the Cardamom region. Resorts, eco-lodges, and homestays typically serve rice-based meals with regional specialties. Popular dishes include:
- Fish Amok – curried steamed fish in banana leaf
- Bai Sach Chrouk – grilled pork and rice
- Lort Cha – stir-fried noodles with vegetables or meat
- Somlar Machu – tangy, sour soups often made with tamarind
In Koh Kong and nearby villages, travelers can also enjoy grilled river fish, freshwater prawns, and seasonal tropical fruits. Seafood dishes, particularly crab and fish cooked with Kampot pepper, are a local delicacy.
Vegetarians can request extra vegetables or tofu—rice and soup are usually standard parts of any meal. Always drink bottled water, as tap water is not considered safe for consumption.
In small towns such as Koh Kong or Sre Ambel, a few restaurants and bars offer Cambodian beers like Angkor and Cambodia Beer, along with fruit smoothies. However, outside the towns, shops are limited. It’s advisable to carry your own snacks, fruits, and instant coffee or chai, especially during trekking or remote stays.
Note: Remote areas like Chi Phat have minimal electricity, so cold beverages and ice are often unavailable. Prepare accordingly for a more rustic dining experience.
Safety Tips and Travel Essentials
Guides: Always hire an experienced local guide for trekking or remote travel. Trails can be confusing and conditions may change rapidly; guides not only enhance your safety but also offer valuable insight into the landscape and culture. Choosing guided services also supports community conservation efforts.
Health: Ensure you are up to date with standard travel vaccinations and consider malaria prophylaxis, especially for forested areas. Pack insect repellent (mosquitoes and leeches are common), sunscreen, and a wide-brimmed hat. A compact first-aid kit containing blister plasters, antiseptic, painkillers, and anti-diarrhea medicine is essential.
Gear: Wear sturdy hiking boots or shoes with good grip. Always pack rain gear, such as a lightweight waterproof jacket, even during the dry season. Bring a water filter or purification tablets if you plan to drink from streams or local sources.
Cash & Communication: Carry sufficient cash, as US Dollars are widely accepted. Note that there are no ATMs in interior areas, and credit cards are rarely useful outside larger towns. Mobile signal is limited in most mountainous and forested regions, so prepare accordingly.
Road Conditions: Roads can be rough, especially after rain. If you’re self-driving, use a 4WD vehicle. Always inform someone of your travel plans and estimated return time, especially when heading into remote areas.
Weather Hazards: During the wet season, be cautious of flash floods and slippery trails. In the dry season, agricultural burning can cause haze and occasional forest fires. Check the weather forecast and seek local advice before embarking on outdoor activities.
Respect Wildlife: Keep a safe distance from all wild animals. Do not attempt to feed them. Adhere strictly to park regulations—camp only in designated areas, avoid littering, and keep noise to a minimum to protect the natural environment.
Culture and Communities
The Cardamoms are home to both Khmer villagers and small indigenous groups. The Chong (Khmer: ចង) are an aboriginal Pearic-speaking people native to the Cardamom forests. Traditionally, they were collectors of wild cardamom and subsistence farmers. Although many Chong have assimilated into mainstream Khmer society, some villages still preserve traditional festivals, rituals, and customs.
Khmer Daeum (“Old Khmer”) refers to upland Khmer communities found in the Cardamom foothills. These groups often maintain distinct dialects, folk traditions, and cultural practices that differ from the lowland Khmer population.
When visiting rural villages:
- Dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees.
- Remove your shoes before entering homes or temples.
- Offer a respectful greeting using the Sampeah gesture (hands pressed together in a prayer-like pose) along with a warm smile.
- Always ask for permission before taking photographs, particularly in remote communities or during local ceremonies.
- Tipping local guides and homestay hosts (about $2–$5 per day) is appreciated and supports the village economy.
- Learning a few basic Khmer phrases like “Chum Reap Suor” (hello) and “Orkun” (thank you) is a great way to show respect and build rapport with locals.
Interacting respectfully with local communities not only enhances your travel experience but also helps preserve the cultural richness of the Cardamom region.
Nearby Attractions
Tatai Waterfall: A scenic two-tiered cascade on the Tatai River, located about 20 km east of Koh Kong town. It’s easily accessible by a short boat trip from the Tatai Bridge on Highway 48. This spot is great for swimming and enjoying jungle walks in the surrounding reserve. The dry season is the best time for swimming as the water is clearer and calmer.
Chi Phat Village: A leading eco-tourism village situated along the Phiphat River in Koh Kong province, about 20 km upriver from Andoung Teuk port. Chi Phat offers experiences such as mountain biking, trekking to waterfalls, ziplining, and homestays with local community guides. The village is also known for its conservation and organic pepper farming projects. While a day trip is possible, an overnight stay is recommended to truly explore the area and support local ecotourism efforts.
Botum Sakor National Park: As Cambodia’s largest coastal national park, located in the southwest of the Cardamoms, it features mangrove forests, palm groves, and offshore islands. Notable attractions include the Cardamom Tented Camp (an eco-lodge within the park), traditional saltwater-inhabiting villages, and Turtle Island—a limestone island known as a nesting ground for marine turtles. The park also boasts long stretches of beach (like Dong Peng) and is home to proboscis monkeys in its mangroves.
Koh Kong City: The provincial capital, positioned at the mouth of the river, offers riverside cafes and bustling local markets. It serves as a key access point for Cardamom Mountain adventures, with speedboats departing for Tatai and Chi Phat from the city’s pier. Many 4×4 adventure tours begin or end in Koh Kong City. Be sure to enjoy a meal at one of the local favorites such as Riverside Cafe or Fat Sam’s, both offering a mix of Khmer and international cuisine.
Enjoy the Cardamoms respectfully—your thoughtful travel choices directly contribute to conservation efforts and the livelihoods of local communities.
